“I am passionate about food; it is one of the most gratifying pleasures in life. To me, eating is like a ritual; an expression of one’s soul.”You don’t have to talk to Chef Jesus “Lolo” Manso for long before you realize that food is his passion; a passion that he has taken very seriously and has used to make a life for himself here in New York City. Originally from Valladolid, Spain, Lolo is the creative mind behind the extremely popular Socarrat Paella Bar.With three locations in Chelsea, Nolita, and Midtown East, the establishment has flourished in New York and has led to two additional concepts, La Nacional and La Churreria.New York International had the opportunity to talk with Lolo about his experience as a restaurateur in New York City, discuss the differences of food culture in the United States and Spain, and pick his brain for words of wisdom for those starting out in New York City.Why did you move to New York?I came to NYC to visit when I was 20 something to see the country – I wanted to see the states, I did not plan to stay. Everything was a good accident. I stayed because it was an adventure, something different, something appealing. I just liked it. After four years I got married and that was the big reason. Here, I was different. I liked the country and I was impressed because American people are very nice, I felt like I was at home and always felt welcome. It was a good feeling. So I said, “let’s see what happens”. My first thought was never “I want to open a restaurant,” it just kind of happened.What were the big differences between working in restaurants in Spain vs. working in restaurants here?My parents have a little bar and restaurant in Spain. In some ways, I was al
ways involved with food. It was a long time ago when I worked with my parents’ restaurant. This is a very good question.At the time it was a little more knowledge of the produce. Cooking and food were more of a ritual in Spain (than in NYC). We took the food more serious than this country. We saw food and eating differently.In the last 10-15 years, the approach to eating and food is more professional and this country has shown that it cares about everything. 20 years ago restaurants in NYC, in general, were less disciplined, they didn’t take food as serious as we did in Spain. Now, it is like the approach is more similar and they are on the same level.When I first moved here I was working here in a fish market, and people did not know how to pick fish or really care how we took care of our product. That is no longer the case.
The biggest struggle was just a lot of licenses and barriers and paperwork. These were the biggest problems, everything needs to be recognized and it took forever to get everything in line. It also was difficult to find the right location – and to get the cash to open it. (chuckling)What were the biggest victories in operating restaurants in NYC?Lolo: The most rewarding part was the people in New York. I was surprised that they knew Spain very well, they knew food and they knew wine, people are very good. They know what they eat and they are open to anything. It’s wonderful. Sometimes we do blood sausage, and sometimes people are very open and really appreciate it as well. When they eat something good and say “it was excellent, better than in Spain and I know it from this or that,” I feel very good. Offering them good food and they know the difference between what is good and what is not – that is the best part.How was New York different for an entrepreneur than in Spain?Oh my, so many things. I was 27 years old when I moved here, so I never was a business owner in Spain, but it was much more difficult to be an entrepreneur over there – and to make it. The United States offered more possibilities, especially when I was moving here. In Spain, 20 years ago, to buy a car you had to wait four or five months, here you could buy one in 25 minutes. This country is very pro-business, very pro-helping people, helping people get started. There were more possibilities in this country for getting started and building credit, than in Spain. It was so much easier in the United States.Any advice for international entrepreneurs getting started in NYC?From what I know, I think there is no more open market than in New York. Everything in this country is possible if you have something good, something with good quality, there is a very high possibility you will be successful in what you do. At the same time, you need to listen to your customers; things that might work in Spain or your home country might not work here, you must adapt to American quality and taste – listen to what people stay.What about those getting started in restaurants?For restaurants it’s much of the same – you must adjust to American tastes. You cannot pretend – if you put in the showcase blood sausage or ear of pig don’t expect the same reaction as you would get in your home country – you must be sensitive to the American taste and American mentality. There is nothing as open and grateful as the people in New York, you can always find someone to buy it, but sometimes you can’t rely 100% on what you do in your own country. If you think it is good, the people here will appreciate it. Some people think Americans’ mentality is a little “this and that,” but people are actually very open. If it is good you can do it in NYC.—Of course, things have changed since Lolo first moved to New York – and the restaurant industry in New York City is among the most competitive in the world. The start-up costs can be higher than a million dollars and the failure rate is higher than 60%, according to Forbes. Nevertheless, Lolo’s experience tells us that if you have a good product and are really 100% behind it, the city of New York and its people are certain to make sure you succeed.