First things first: There is no specific neighborhood in New York for Germans anymore. This used to be different. Yorktown on both the Upper and Lower East Side used to host thousands of German immigrants in the 19th and 20th centuries. They lived together as neighbors and the predominant language was German. Some reminders of that era are churches with German glass windows, German delicatessens, and German beer gardens. These days, Germans coming into the city tend to blend in rather quickly and you won’t find a particular “German neighborhood.”
German Culture
There are many cultural institutions that help Germans to gather; among them is “Deutsches Haus at NYU,” a beautiful building located in the historic Greenwich Village district, a part of New York University. Since 1977 it has provided New Yorkers with a forum for cultural, intellectual, and artistic exchange with Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Columbia University started off the tradition of having a “Deutsches Haus” back in 1911. Their programs cover the German language and culture, and are free and open to the public. Finally, the reknowned Goethe-Institute is actually more a place for Americans and other nations to get serious about speaking the language, but the Institute also hosts some interesting events – currently setting up their tents in a gallery space in the Lower East Side.A lot of the gathering of the German speaking community is rather informal and based on friendships – often initiated on playgrounds by German speaking moms or au pairs. One such initiative has gone a step further and evolved into a small organization. CityKinder.com is a playgroup and website for German speaking parents offering a variety of resources, groups, seminars and family events. Their children’s program features various music and story time classes, soccer, and language programs, while their adult education consists of seminars, birth education classes and new mom support groups.And, you may ask, where do they like to hang out after all of this culture? Germans do have their favorite places and spaces in the city. Here are some of them:
German Food
Germans love their meat (ever tried to travel as a vegetarian through Germany? We tried, and it’s not an easy trip!) so no wonder, some of the best butchers and delicatessens were / are owned by Germans or German descendants.Hidden in the heart of what was the German community of Ridgewood, Queens in the early 1900s, lies a place where old European family butchery traditions and recipes come alive. The minute you step foot through their doors, your senses are consumed with mesmerizing aromas of meats that are overwhelming. Morscher’s Pork Store, located on Catalpa Avenue in Queens, is a perfect place to find specialty meats from Germany, Austria, Poland, Slovenia, Yugoslavia, and many other Eastern European delights.Morscher’sThe store was opened in 1957 by Joseph “Pepi” Morscher, who brought his family recipes and traditions from Gottschee, a German county in Slovenia, to America. Today, the son of “Pepe’s” cousin is running the store with a partner. Morscher’s continues to process meats in the same way as when it was opened and offers true quality meats with specialties such as Weisswurst, Krainerwurst, Tirolerwurst, and Bierwurst. Shelves are stocked with many imported European goods such as cookies, different spaetzles, pickles, salads, jams, chocolates, and much more. Delivery to Manhattan can be arranged – call 718-821-1040 or e-mail herbie@morschersporkstore.com.58-44 Catalpa Avenue, Ridgewood, NY 11385.www.morschersporkstore.comSchaller & WeberThe go-to butcher in Manhattan is Schaller & Weber. The store reminds older Germans of the mom and pop stores of the 50’s and 60’s in Germany. Tucked away in a not so lovely corner on second Avenue and 86th Street, Schaller & Weber is somewhat hidden by the ongoing subway construction. Once inside, there’s no doubt you found it – great sausages, meat, and all sorts of German goodies linger on the shelf. From baking supplies and German chocolate to the beloved “NIVEA” skin care products and pickles, you won’t miss much. The staff is extremely nice and very friendly with their long time customers; they love to get new ones too. Our favorite? The sausages, which are now being sold in many high end supermarkets in the city and are even being served in the Standards’ German themed beer garden.1654 2nd Avenue #1 New York, NY 10028www.schallerweber.comAldiGermans are into food, but they also love to save on it. Aldi, the German retail giant which was the eighth-largest retailer in the world in 2009 with an estimated $67.7 billion in revenue and 250 stores in the US, has quietly opened its first store in New York City – Queens, to be precise. With prices that even Wal Mart can’t beat, Aldi offers many private label goods of very high quality. But don’t expect fancy or exotic food; these are your every day items at a discount – which millions of Germans swear by.61-11 Junction Boulevard, Rego Park, NYwww.aldi.us
German Restaurants
Where do Germans go when they miss home? Obviously they’ll single out good beer and food. These are some of our favorites:Zum SchneiderAll the way in the Lower East Side labeled as a German indoor beer garden, this place is the best if you miss true and authentic Bavarian food. The waiters keep calm in the midst of high volume noise and serve the best Schnitzel and Krautsalat in town.107 Avenue C New York, NY 10009www.zumschneider.comLoreleyModeled after a Cologne Brauhaus (brewery), Loreley is a different version of a beer garden – this one with a true outdoor beer garden – serving the typical dark “Koelsch” beer and German food. Loreley has been so successful in Lower Manhattan that it opened an outpost in Williamsburg. Loreley has become a popular spot for Germans and internationals to watch soccer, and whenever there’s a major event going on fans come in their jersies. When it comes to food, try the Potato Pancake (Reibekuchen) or Wurstplatte (sausages).7 Rivington Street, New York, NY 10002www.loreleynyc.comAnother favorite among the German speaking community is a restaurant that is really owned by an Austrian-American:Blaue Gans or “blue goose” in Tribeca is a friendly and warm space where lovers of the Austrian-German cuisine mingle with Tribecan families. The blank wooden tables create a simple but stylish atmosphere. Our favorite food here is the traditional goose which is mainly served in November and December and can be pre-ordered family style for a large group. For Germans and Austrians a goose dinner in November has a similar tradition to Turkey in America.139 Duane Street, New York, NY 10013www.kg-ny.comGuten Appetit!(For all updates on Germany in NYC go to www.germanyinnyc.com)